A rebuttal, a Tamil Prince, a Fellow snob...
As stated
Really enjoyed this post from Maura Chen “an artist, architectural designer, educator, and writer from tovaangar (los angeles) with roots and/or homes in the east bay, san francisco, new york, and west philly” (thank you AS for sharing!) - responding to Vittles’ ‘Ten Things London's Restaurants Can Learn from Los Angeles’ → Chen treats this meaty article with a lot more seriousness than I’ve seen anyone else engage with Vittles content and that in itself was fantastic to see, as someone with a lot of thoughts on V and its influence and behaviour on London’s food scene. Quite academic and with fantastic external sources to underline nuanced and arguments - with lots of opportunity for fun further reading. A serious and Critically Theoretical reply to something that probably wasn't intended to be taken so seriously → the original is a fantastic resource for LA and I agree with a lot of the points having visited the place only a few weeks after it was posted, but Maura’s reply really makes you remember your biases and privileges, even if they aren’t buried that deeply.
Tamil Prince, 115 Hemingford Rd, London N1 1BZ
Just over 1-year old opening from ex-Roti King duo Prince Elavarasan Durai and Glen Leeson. Very pleasant setting, not overly Desi or Tamil in decoration or music (only noting this because I remember Hoppers playing Kollywood Cream), staff wear shirts that say Cheers in Tamil, and have a cartoon of a ‘Bhatura Boy’ on the back. Chef is visible looking very happy through the window to the kitchen you can peer into from the dining room, tossing some parottas (buttery, flaky roti - on the menu). Deep fried appetisers well portioned and spiced (okra, onion bhajji, chicken lollipop) - chutneys were slightly too meagre in quantity (a problem I have everywhere, but probably most can relate to experiencing it at Dishoom where a trio of thimbles filled with a teaspoon of chutney are served). No chutney served with okra fries was surprising! Maybe an oversight, but if they didn’t have chaat masala/mango powder dusted on them I probably would have asked for some tabasco. Huge head-on, shell-on tiger prawns were difficult to eat with a fork or with hands but they tasted great in that semi-dry style that we people love, a bed of rocket/arugula to collect the masala juices was something i haven’t seen before. I hear they used to have a great ‘crab bisque’ probably a crab rasam but they’ve removed it from the menu (reminded me of a king crab rasam i made several weeks ago with snow crab legs from b’way market). Chettinad lamb curry was of a high-standard but nothing spectacular (some potatoes in it would’ve made it very homestyle and jolly). Roti was very good, probably shouldn’t sell them 1-piece at a time when any decent person needs at least two if its being dipped into kari instead of being wrapped around some ingredients, and even then you need at least two. Big hit for me and VM was the coconut ‘pilau’ rice, which seemed to be uncooked basmati fried first in coconut oil, and then steamed with some ginger slices, cloves, cardamom, and then sprinkled with coconut chips before serving. Small portion but wonderfully aromatic - the British and Indian mind would both love it. Poor pictures attached below, this newsletter will encourage more and better pictures being taken.
3. Hijazi Corner الركن الحجازي Old Marylebone Rd, London NW1 5RAYemeni and Saudi food on Edgeware road, this time was a bit disappointing compared to the first time I went a few months ago. The service is never anything to write home about - but getting your own plates from the cupboard you happen to be sat next to is funny. Lots and lots of items sold-out at a not-that-late weeknight dinner time. The motabags are always crowd-pleasing - and they were this time as well. Fried dough filled with cheese and meat/veg is hard to get wrong or dislike, but this time I felt they weren’t immensely savoury or flavoursome - again some Eagle brand sauce or lots of sahaweq needed. I finally learned what a sahaweq with cheese is after ordering it at dozens of restaurants between Dubai and London - its a sahaweq with cream cheese mixed into it which is actually quite unpleasant and doesn’t reveal you as some highly discerning diner but just someone with questionable taste in salsas. Mandi and kouzi were above-average, but the chicken had a slightly lurid orange colour, and the lamb was much drier than I remember! Queen of Sheba supremacy for central Mandi…
New coffee purchases
Fellow Stagg EKG electric gooseneck kettle, fellow vacuum bean flask, Orea V3 brewer and Assembly Brazil S15 Mio beans. Didn’t realise how enjoyable a gooseneck was to use until I spent a week with WP in Culver City, not making coffee but mostly drinking tea and hot water. I lost a hasami kalita brewer so I got the Orea V3, and these random beans which turned out to be the best filter of the year! Juicyfruits, salivating, great even with randomly varied water:grounds ratio.
Spring farmers market finds which i mostly wasted without doing anything too interesting with them - wild garlic pesto, stewed courgette flowers in veg stock, and wrapped the sorrel/chrysanthemum flower leaves in an instant parotta and spread with labneh and eagle.
That’s all for now! Gimme some FEEDBACK…